I thought we would not see such a rainy spring and early summer as we experienced in 2007, but I was wrong.  This year is even worse!  We are basically farmers at LawnAmerica, trying to grow grass and healthy landscapes.  So just as a farmer is effected by adverse weather—so are we and so is your lawn and landscape.

Excessive rainfall such as we have experienced for the past several months will cause the following:

  • More weeds, especially moisture-loving nutsedge loving the wet soil. 
  • While the Barricade pre-emergent we use is very good and holds up to rainfall very well, this spring has been exceptional.  Pre-emergents are designed to break down naturally after 5-6 months and not persist in the soil forever.  When the soil is constantly saturated, they will break down even faster.  Therefore, we expect some mid to late summer breakthrough from crabgrass especially.
  • Nitrogen fertilizer is soluble in the soil, so when it rains excessively, it will leach into deeper sub-soil layers faster and beyond reach of turfgrass roots.  Therefore, the benefits of growth and color response to nitrogen fertilizer will not last as long as usual with excessive rainfall. 
  • It makes mowing more difficult to keep up with, which can lead to turfgrass quality problems.
  • Fescue lawns will develop more brown patch disease problems.
  • It has affected our schedule of consistent treatments, as we continue to be about a week or so behind where we need to be on the timing of treatments to your lawn.
  • Most landscape plants do not like to sit in water, and some will be damaged if they are not planted in an area that drains well.

We appreciate your patience and understanding in dealing with the curve balls that mother nature throws us.  As a homeowner, look on the bright side—at least you can turn your sprinkler system off, and just think of all the money you can and will save by not having to irrigate your lawn!  It is Oklahoma weather however, so I am sure it will be hot and dry before we know it. 





The following horticulture and landscape tips are adapted from Oklahoma State University’s Division of Agricultural Sciences and Natural Resources’ Horticulture Tips, June 2008 Publication.  

General Landscape

  • Mulch ornamentals, vegetables and annuals to reduce soil crusting, and to regulate temperatures and moisture during hot summer months.  Mulching will reduce about 70 percent of the summer yard maintenance.
  • Remain alert for insect damage.  Add spider mite to the list.  Foliage of most plants becomes pale and speckled; juniper foliage turns a pale yellowish color.  Shake a branch over white paper and watch for tiny specks that crawl.  Watch for first generation fall webworm.

Flowers

  • Pinch back leggy annuals to encourage new growth.  Fertilize and water appropriately.

Protecting Trees in the Landscape

One of the leading causes of death to trees in the landscape is what we refer to as weed-eater or lawnmower “blight.”  This is usually a result of someone trying to get too close to the base of the tree when controlling grasses and weeds.  Constant use of weed-eaters around the base of trees wears down the bark and eventually cuts into the cambium layer girdling the tree and cutting it off to water and nutrients.  Lawn mowers often take big chunks out of the trunk of the tree with similar results.  The other problem is both of thee wounds open the tree up for attack from insects and/or diseases.

To avoid this problem a weed and grass free area should be maintained around the base of the tree.  For young trees, a 4 to 6 foot diameter circle will work.  Mulch can be placed 2 to 3 inches thick in this area to help keep weeds and grass out at the same time moderate soil temperatures and soil moisture.  Be sure to keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk.  Piling mulch several inches up the trunk is often referred to as a “mulch volcano,” and can also have detrimental effects.  Occasionally weeds and grasses that creep into the mulched area may need to be sprayed with a herbicide.  Herbicides with glyphosate as the active ingredient work quite well.  Be sure to read and follow label instructions.

Another option for small trees is to put trunk guards or protective wraps made of flexible plastic.  In some cases, tree stakes act as a barrier from mechanical injury.

For larger, more established trees, a mulched area or even a bare area near the trunk will help keep lawnmowers and weed-eaters away.  Or, consider planting groundcovers or perennials for a more aesthetical appeal.

In any event, avoid injury to the trunks of your trees at all costs.  While many trees can recover from an occasional, small wound, repeated damage weakens the tree sending it into a declining spiral and eventually death.





Primo Maxx is designed for use on all forms of turf to reduce the frequency of mowing and the amount of grass clippings through reducing the topgrowth of turfgrasses.  This not only saves you time, but will save the cost of several gallons of gas due to fewer mowings.  And, by decreasing the time your mower is running, you will help cut down on engine emissions during the summer.

Using unique chemistry, it makes turf stronger by increasing both root and lateral shoot growth. The result is a shorter distance between the shoot nodes, leading to more compact root growth. While the vertical growth is slowed, both root and lateral growth are boosted, creating stronger, healthier turf.

Extensive research has proven that implementing a program which includes an application of Primo Maxx plant growth regulator prior to the onset of stresses like heat, drought, disease and traffic can strengthen the turf, and therefore allow it to withstand ongoing stresses throughout the season.

Primo Maxx reaches the growing point through the foliage and it is not washed off by rainfall or irrigation 1 hour after application. Watering-in is not required. For best results, Primo Maxx should be applied to high quality turfgrass which receives adequate fertilization.

How Does Primo Maxx Work?

The active ingredient in Primo Maxx, trinexapac-ethyl, causes a temporary halt to the production of gibberellic acid, a plant growth hormone which is responsible for the top growth of the plant. Trinexapac-ethyl is taken up by the foliage of the grass plant and is translocated systemically to the growing point of the plant. After application the turf grass grows more slowly than in untreated areas, with shorter leaf blades. Basically, it promotes root growth, and not top growth, which not only saves you time, but it good for the health of your turf! Sign Up Online and Save $10! Sign up to receive this service online by visiting http://www.lawnamerica.com/primomaxx.html and we will schedule you for your application(s) of Primo Maxx Growth Regulator immediately.








Copyright LawnAmerica 2008