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On August 1st of this year, I warned homeowners in the Tulsa area through a blog to be on the lookout for Armyworms in their lawn, as the conditions this year with all the rain and lush growth are very similar to the last big invasion about 14 years ago. It appears that we could be in for at least some damage in areas, if not all over Tulsa and Northeast Oklahoma. Today (August 24th) I saw one lawn in south Tulsa devastated by Armyworms, and other lawns in the area had small worms down in the thatch. Then later in the day, as I was watering my blueberry patch out in the country, I looked down and saw Armyworms in my Bermudagrass. How dare they!

The Fall Armyworm is the larva stage of a small gray moth, which migrates up from Mexico and Texas during the summer. Remember learning about complete metamorphosis in Science class years ago? Well, it starts when the female moth flies in and lays up to 2000 eggs in grass, shrubs, fences, tree, etc. at night, with hatching occurring a few days later into tiny larvae. They are very small and hidden down in the thatch layers of the turf. You won’t see them unless you get down on your hands and knees and look carefully into the turf. They are pretty harmless at this point as they are so small. But over a week or so, as they eat more and more grass foliage, they become much larger, over an inch long; mainly green, with brown stripes down the side. About 80% of the damage caused by Armyworms occurs during the final two days of their feeding, before they burrow into the ground to change to the pupa stage. Then a weak or so later, the pupa hatches into, you guessed it, the adult moth, and the process starts all over again. Several generations occur from August up until frost in late October or November.

These devastating insect pests can destroy turf almost overnight, as they typically invade the lawns as an army marching over the turf. In 2000 with the last big invasion, I remember actually seeing the lawns move as thousands of caterpillars moved across the turf eating grass blades down to the dirt. You could actually hear the chomping of the insects eating the turf, at least I could back then when my hearing was better. So the key to controlling Armyworms is to treat them with an insecticide when they are smaller and before they do damage to the turf.

Fescue turf is the main concern, because if they eat Fescue down to the dirt, it will probably just die, especially when it is hot. We never recommend scalping Fescue, and an Armyworm invasion is like a super scalp job. If your Fescue dies, then you’ll be re-seeding your lawn this fall, which is much more expensive than an insecticide treatment (same cost as your regular lawn treatment). They also love to feed on Bermudagrass, and can take it down to the stems and dirt. However, Bermudagrass is pretty tough, and it will recover in most cases with good irrigation and fertilization. Your lawn will look awful though for several weeks before it recovers. If you have a Zoysiagrass lawn, you’re in luck, as typically they won’t touch it.

There are several common liquid insecticides that control Armyworm larvae, but that needs to happen soon before they get much larger. Scout your lawn, and if you see them, we recommend contacting LawnAmerica promptly, or just treat it yourself. It’s actually a fairly easy treatment for the homeowner if they can buy a hose end sprayer and drench the lawn with the insecticide. Sevin and Permethrin are two common products you’ll find, but just read the label to make sure Armyworms are on it. Granular insecticides are OK, but don’t work as well as a liquid drench for Armyworm control. If we experience a major invasion of Armyworms in Tulsa, we’ll be hard pressed to be able to treat everyone who calls that day. We’ll be ready and do the best we can. But they can explode almost overnight, so I would recommend scouting your lawn and treating when they are small. It will be first come—first served when people call or contact us on our website, so I’d get with us sooner than later.

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It’s the first day of August, in Tulsa Oklahoma, and it feels more like October. And that’s fine by me, after the many scorching hot summers we’ve experienced here lately. And my rain gauge measured 3” of rainfall over the past few days. Heck, we couldn’t buy even an inch of rain in 2011 and 2012! These types of good, soaking rains are great for the turf and trees in Tulsa, as the soil moisture gets down deep.

So give your irrigation system a break, along with your water bill. Just turn it off and let things dry out for up to a week. In most cases your lawn and landscape will be fine. In fact, while the very top of the soil will dry out, turf roots will grow deep into the soil, picking up that deep soil moisture which does not dry out as quickly. This is what turf grass managers want, is good and deep root systems. So these rains we’ve experienced this July have been perfect for that.

Trees have been beat up during the past few years, so these summer soaking rains are great for them also. I’ve never seen things so lush and green during mid-summer, so I expect the insects that feed on trees, shrubs, and turf will be having a smorgasbord as summer progresses. Be on the alert for bugs then chewing on your plants, and contact our staff horticulturist if needed.

And, you heard it first here, on August 1st. We are long overdue for a serious Fall Armyworm invasion in Tulsa. Now I’m not predicting that, but I will say the conditions are right, and we are due, to have an invasion this fall. So if they come, you can say I’m a genius. If not, then we can just hide this blog in the deep recesses of LawnAmerica and I’ll deny saying that. But if I was you, I’d be on the alert and have my lawn insecticide ready. Last major invasion we had was about 13 years ago I believe, and many stores ran out of product to kill the Armyworms. We have plenty at LawnAmerica.

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We've been thinking about offering our lawncare services in Edmond and Oklahoma City area for several years, and we recently have pulled the trigger on this venture. After obtaining a very large commercial property in Oklahoma City, we decided it was time to go. We for now are driving the turnpike every few weeks from Tulsa, but will have a place to call home by this winter, and begin marketing to OKC homeowners and businesses soon. So the weeds in OKC had better be warned LawnAmerica is coming your way!

Oklahoma City soils are a little more alkaline (higher pH) than Tulsa, and the climate is a little drier. Other than that, the turf, landscapes, and customers are pretty similar. It's a little flatter also, so our guys will appreciate not having to push that heavy fertilizer spreader up hills as they do in parts of Tulsa! It's bigger, with more miles to cover and more people, so that's exciting to us. We've been blessed here in Tulsa, and have done very well, serving almost 13,000 customers, making us the largest lawncare provider in Oklahoma. So with the OKC expansion, with time, we hope to be able to help even more homeowners and businesses with their lawncare needs, and make their world a little greener. And, we hope to provide more great professional opportunities for our LawnAmerica team members.

Giving back to the communities we serve is also a big part of LawnAmerica. So weíll do things in Oklahoma City and Edmond to help kids, families, and non-profits as we've done for 16 years here in Tulsa. Currently, we are serving lemonade every Wednesday at Keith's Lemonade Stand at the Little Lighthouse

at 36th & Yale. We, along with a few other Tulsa businesses such as Chick-fil-A, are helping to raise $250,000 for the new expansion at LLH. So stop by and see us, enjoy some free lemonade, and make a contribution to the Little Lighthouse so they can serve more deserving kids in Tulsa.

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I hear it often from homeowners. “Why is my lawn not as green as my neighbors?” Or, “I didn’t see enough fertilizer on my lawn after your treatment.” Yes, fertilizer, particularly nitrogen fertilizer, is mainly what makes lawns in Tulsa nice and green. Since nitrogen does not stay in the soil profile for that long, it needs to be consistently added to the soil in order to produce the thick, green turf which homeowners and others desire.

However, fertilizer is not the only factor in making grass green. Genetics is huge, as certain turf varieties will be more green and thick than others. Just as in people or any other living thing, there will be differences in characteristics and appearance, and that is a good thing. Soil types play a major role in turf performance and health. Irrigation, mowing practices, and sunlight are all huge in determining how green and healthy turf is.

Dollar Spot turf disease in bermudagrass can be a sign of nitrogen deficiency or over-wateringYes, fertilizer is important, or we would not be able to stay in business! The types, amounts, and frequency of fertilizer application are all important. And I can assure you that LawnAmerica knows and uses the best types of fertilizers, applies them accurately, and at the proper times using the proper rates.

It’s easy to make a lawn really green…..just dump a bunch of Urea or 46-0-0 on the lawn. Just make sure you water it in well, or you’ll burn your lawn. Even if you do water it in, too much nitrogen will still burn it, especially during hot weather. Bermudagrass turf in Tulsa needs about one pound of actual nitrogen per 1000’ per growing month. Too little will lead to thin turf, pale green color, and other problems such as Dollar Spot turf disease. Too much nitrogen will weaken the root system, cause too much topgrowth (you’ll be mowing every 3 days), could cause other turf disease issues, and could burn the turf. And using excessive nitrogen or any other fertilizer, such as phosphorus, can be bad for the environment. So our best full programs, the 6 and 7-Step Programs, supply about 5-6 lbs of actual nitrogen per 1000’ to the turf, with four treatments of granular fertilizers, spaced about every 4.5-8 weeks, depending upon the season and program.

We use higher analysis fertilizers at LawnAmerica, such as a 32-0-7 during mid-summer. So if our goal is to apply 1.4 lbs of actual nitrogen per 1000’, we only need about 4.5 pounds of fertilizer applied to that 1000’ of turf. So when we blow the fertilizer off concrete areas, as we do, and with some of the fertilizer pellets being brown (they are organic), you will be hard pressed to see a bunch of fertilizer.